While no walking trip to Rum would be complete without a traverse of the Cuillin (one of the best scrambly ridges in Scotland), there's plenty more to go at elsewhere on this stunning island nature reserve. Head out to the small-but-impressive hills of Rum's wild west for something a little different - rugged coastal scenery, a good chance of complete solitude and memorable views of not one but two (count em) Cuillin ridges. There's plenty of wildlife too, from hordes of deer to possible sea eagles. No sign of any flightless, self-pitying green ducks in nappies though. Sorry. That was Orval.
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1
NM4114199125 NB. The first 4km or so are much quicker by bike.
Take the track through Kinloch, passing the front of the castle to meet the Kinloch River at a bridge. Don’t cross; keep on the track to head upstream along the river’s south bank. Soon pass out of woods onto the open ground of upper Kinloch Glen. At a track junction go right, then cross the Kinloch River to enter upper Kilmory Glen.
2
NG3635100514 Shortly afterward, go left onto a path that climbs past a small wood before curving up left onto a broad boggy saddle. The trail now descends the deserted length of Glen Shellesder, with some rough wet going underfoot. Eventually reach a lonely bay on Rum's northwest coast. The headland on the north side of the bay is the site of a prehistoric promontory fort, and worth a quick detour.
3
NG3269302063 The path continues southwest, climbing above sea cliffs before descending into Guirdil Bay - where you'll find an excellent MBA bothy.
4
NG3196201344 Directly overhead are the steep craggy flanks of Bloodstone Hill. It's well worth climbing, but not direct from here. First head inland up Glen Guirdil – there are traces of path on the west bank of the burn, though beyond a fenced woodland these soon fade into tussocky ground. Once near the head of the glen bear right, climbing steeply beside a burn to reach a little pool just below the Bealach an Dubh-bhraigh.
5
NM3209199747 Join a clear stalker’s path here for the easy out-and-back detour onto Bloodstone Hill. The high point is right on the edge of the precipitous face overlooking the Sound of Canna. Quite a spot.
6
NG3144800637 Retrace your steps back past the pool mentioned in stage 4, then turn south off the path to climb the rock-strewn north spur of Sron an t-Saighdeir. There’s a large cairn on top. Follow the high ground onto an unnamed plateau-like top (spot height 520m), then bear left, passing over a second more slender top to make the final climb onto Orval. As the highest summit in the west of the island this gives brilliant views of two Cuillin ridges, both Rum's and Skye's.
7
NM3336699088 Continue along the edge of the impressive Glen Guirdil crags, looking out (carefully) for the detached rock needle of the Orval Pinnacle. The ridge narrows a little, then drops quite steeply to the Bealach a’Bhraigh Bhig, with the easiest ground leading into the bealach being found a little to the right. Down on the col you might consider a quick up-and-back detour onto Fionchra. Otherwise rejoin the stalker’s path of stage 5 to descend east towards the centre of the island. Here meet a 4WD track back to Kinloch.
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Difficulty: DifficultDistance: 17.80 miles (28.65 km)
Total ascent: 1,071m
Steepest Gradient: 48% (1 in 2)
Time: 8 – 10 hours (Walking)
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Additional Information
Start/Finish:Kinloch - let's say the ferry slipway, NM411991
Nearest town:
Mallaig
Terrain:
A stony 4WD track to start, then a long boggy stalker’s path to the coast. There's some rough pathless ground mixed with occasional traces of trail up on the hills, then an excellent path in descent.
Public transport:
Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Mallaig on the Mainland. There are only a handful of sailings per week, each way, so check the timetable before you start planning your trip. No cars allowed on the island, though bikes would be an advantage on this route. http://www.calmac.co.uk/ 0800 066 5000
Maps:
OS Explorer 397 (1:25,000), OS Landranger 39 (1:50,000), OS Landranger 32 (1:50,000)
Accommodation:
Kinloch Castle hostel - recently closed for repairs with temporary replacement accommodation being provided for the 2013 season (01687) 462037 Ivy Cottage Guesthouse B&B, plus a small caravan to let (01687) 462744 Kinloch Village Campsite: Most visitors choose this option. Basic but cheap seashore camping mid-way between the ferry pier and Kinloch Castle.
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Weather and Hill Conditions:
mwis: Northwest Highlands – Met Office: West Highlands
Further Routes
by Dan Bailey UKH