Pillar from Buttermere via the High-Level Route Trail runningWalking

Unless you’re a West Cumbrian, Pillar takes significantly more effort than the other high fells, requiring a long drive to reach the base. Often that is Wasdale. But this misses out on Pillar's finest aspect: the chaotic northern face. Ennerdale is a good place to start, but it’s a long way up the valley before you reach the fell’s lower reaches. If you’re already in Buttermere, it’s not too big an ask to add Scarth Gap as a walk-in, but heed Wainwright’s warnings that you’ll have to recross the pass at the end of the day, so pack spare oomph. The High Level Route is a journey not just through space but also time: it was the preferred approach of the early climbers to Pillar Rock. This was hallowed ground in the clinker-nailed, leader-must-not-fall era. Breathe deeply enough and you can smell the damp tweed, hemp rope and pipe smoke. Men may find their sideburns growing a little quicker. Nowadays, it’s a delightful quiet alternative to the East Ridge, picking an improbable line across a steep fellside, leading to the jaw-dropping moment when the Rock finally heaves into view at Robinson’s cairn.

Pillar from High Stile. The High Level Route starts at the inflection point on the left-hand ridge, skirting rightwards to the   © Norman Hadley
Pillar from High Stile. The High Level Route starts at the inflection point on the left-hand ridge, skirting rightwards to the
Fetching Map

Detailed description

1
NY1942114979 Start at Gatesgarthdale farm. The white cross up on your left is a memorial to Fanny Mercer who fell from Fleetwith Edge in the late C19th. Take the path squeezed between the beck and the farmyard, heading down to the head of the lake. Cross Peggy's bridge. Look out for Highland cattle. Ahead, you should see a triangular wood that defines the zig and zag of the start to Scarth Gap.
In the classic view from Buttermere, the Scarth Gap track wraps round the triangular wood then slants up to the col  © Norman Hadley
In the classic view from Buttermere, the Scarth Gap track wraps round the triangular wood then slants up to the col
© Norman Hadley, Mar 2018

2
NY1891614750 Climb up the right-hand side of the wood and take the long, left leaning zag to the notch between Haystacks on your left and Seat (a subsidiary of High Crag) on your right. On reaching the watershed, descend straight into Ennerdale, veering left when you reach the treeline. Keep an eye out for the right turn before the trees, as this will be your return leg.

3
NY1913112510 Descend to valley level, taking a half left to the Black Sail hut. Pass to the right of this and descend to the young River Liza: the river that defines, and is defined by, Ennerdale. At the time of writing (May 2024) there is no bridge, and the remains of two earlier structures testifies to the power of this river when in spate. Climb up the opposite side, past some intriguing sheep-topiarised conifers and a semi-fallen rowan. Before too long, you'll reach the Ennerdale watershed at Black Sail Pass.

4
NY1916411448 Turn right, gaining the East Ridge of Pillar. The fence posts are an excellent guide in mist. The route bypasses the Nuttall of Looking Stead but you can make a quick detour if you're keeping score.

5
NY1841311662 After Looking Stead, the ridge falls slightly and then starts to rise. The key to the Traverse is correctly identifying the start. The first sign is you'll see two fence posts with their strengthening scantlings on opposite sides, so they visually combine as an "X" marks the spot. Confirmation comes in the form of a distinctive perched block on the Ennerdale slope, looking like a sugar-cube with a lot of potential energy. There's also a cairn and a distinctively flattened fence post but by now you should be sure of yourself. Leave the ridge and skirt off right. Nowhere difficult, the path holds an approximate contour across grand mountain scenery, with plenty of evidence of rockfall from the crags of Hind Cove high above. Listen out for ring ouzels in summer as they favour these rough fellsides. After about a kilometre, you'll reach the "ta-da" moment of Robinson's Cairn. The view of the Rock from here is one of Lakeland's most humbling spectacles. The line of the Shamrock traverse should be obvious, slanting up and rightwards to the skyline.
Pillar Rock from Robinson's Cairn. The Shamrock Traverse is the obvious shelf skirting up to the top of the Rock.  © Norman Hadley
Pillar Rock from Robinson's Cairn. The Shamrock Traverse is the obvious shelf skirting up to the top of the Rock.
© Norman Hadley, May 2024

6
NY1740512346 Cross the floor of Pillar Cove and gain the start of the Shamrock Traverse. This is generally very easy, with just one thought-provoking step across a weeping slab. Once you're past that, it's a matter of following the pole-scratches, up and right, to the col between the Rock and Pillar then following zigzags up to the summit of the latter. Although the top is flat, the summit is not in doubt due to the trig point and shelters.

7
NY1712212107 From the summit, take the sketchy line north-west towards White Pike. The terrain is initially stony but soon softens to rough grass. A few fence posts lead the way and, lower down, a wall. Cross High Beck just above the treeline. Follow the treeline up the far bank for a minute then turn right through a gate. Follow the wall down then, when it becomes tumbledown, step through it to enter the forest proper. The path is not too hard to follow and, ultimately, you just need to get down to the fire road.

8
NY1553813301 At the fire road, turn right and follow it for two kilometres.

9
NY1754013127 Cross the Pillar Memorial footbridge and gain the forest road on the north side of the valley.

10
NY1770513221 Turn right on this but very quickly fork left to gain a path that rejoins your outward journey on the southern flank of Scarth Gap.

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Further Routes

by Norman Hadley



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