SH7563961819 From the car park turn right and walk a short distance up the road to Llyn Crafnant, one of Snowdonia's most beautiful lakes. Go through the gate on the right and follow the lakeside track until it forks. Take the right fork and climb gently into the forest. Just after the track makes a sharp righthand bend, leave it for a waymarked path into the trees. This extremely pleasant path ascends past mossy boulders and old walls, navigating a short boggy section before emerging back on the forestry track and an area of clear felling.

SH7407161433 Cross the track and enter a scene of decimation. The outlook is unsettling but a glance over your shoulder will reveal a tremendous view of Moel Siabod and the Gwydyr Forest. The walk through this Tunguskan landscape is short lived and soon you will step into shaggy moorland bedecked in heather and rough grasses. Cross wet ground to pick up a fence which leads to a stile. Beyond the stile head north to another fence and stile combo. The way now goes left and after outflanking the worst of the bog rejoin the fence and follow a good path uphill. As the angle relents, another stile is crossed as Carnedd Llewelyn bursts into view. The feeling hereabouts is of being in a wild and remote mountain fastness. The route now snakes through damp ground before steepening up onto the north top of Creigiau Gleision. The view over to the Ogwen giants is sublime and the ground at your feet plunges down to Llyn Cowlyd, Wales' deepest lake at 229ft. 900 metres of knobbly ridge lie between you and Creigiau Glesion's 2224ft summit cairn.

SH7290361537 The cairn is a logical place to have some lunch but those of a nervous disposition should beware, for the summit is haunted by a disembodied voice which, on many occasions, has been heard in both Welsh and English. You have been warned! From the summit, retrace your steps a few metres and travel south along a broad terrace which eventually descends to a wider section of ridge. Continue to be guided by the landscape on shy, intermittent paths down two wide grassy gullies which lead to a flat boggy bwlch. The path now outflanks Craig Wen on its western side and meanders easily down to another bwlch before a short sharp pull lands you beside Crimpiau's shapely summit tor. Drink in a supreme view of lake and mountain.

SH7329459570 Leave the summit and descend a short way to a boggy saddle. Turn left and follow a bouldery gully which turns into a lovely path with wonderful views of Crafnant. At the bottom you will encounter an insensitively made track at the head of Nant y Geuallt. Turn left and drop down into Crafnant. This final descent takes you into a world of improbable beauty, an Arcadian paradise where wild ponies roam freely amongst hawthorn and blackthorn. This is Cwm Glas Crafnant National Nature Reserve, and through it weaves the prettiest of paths down to Blaen y Nant where we, with much regret, find ourselves back on tarmac. Go through the gate and follow the shaded lane until an oasis appears below and left of you. In the summer months the lakeside tea room is just the thing before embarking on the final leg back to the start.