Rockfax Description
Slightly more of an undertaking than its neighbour and equally memorable. The original first pitch is often dirty so the start of Golden Slipper is described here. Start at a right-leading ramp.
1) 4c, 15m. Follow the ramp to an overhang and pass it on the right to gain a ledge. Take the steep wall above to a large ledge and belay - as for Golden Slipper.
2) 5b, 22m. Head rightwards up slabby ground and enter a tight corner/groove on the edge of the pillar. Climb the corner/groove until a short traverse left gains the end of Golden Slipper's second pitch.
3) 4c, 18m. Climb the right arete past a tricky section low down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The narrow groove in the R. arete of the Golden Slipper slab. More physical than GS but with bomber gear where it is most needed.
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Allan Austin Classics , Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lakeland E1 Classics , Lake District To Do List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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markgorin | 4 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Be aware there is a loose flake at the top of the groove on P2, just above the traverse onto Golden Slipper, 3m below the top of the groove ( read FRCC description). The loose flake is just above this and a move above the last obvious really good nut / cam placement. You do not need to use the flake to traverse L onto GS but it does look a very tempting hold (and looks used) when working out what to do. NB it does NOT look loose! No cracks etc. It just looks like a part of the bedrock and would be a good couple of kg in weight. Remember Jack's Rake us busy! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Be aware there is a loose flake at the top of the groove on P2, just above the traverse onto Golden Slipper, 3m below the top of the groove ( read FRCC description). The loose flake is just above this and a move above the last obvious really good nut / cam placement. You do not need to use the flake to traverse L onto GS but it does look a very tempting hold (and looks used) when working out what to do. NB it does NOT look loose! No cracks etc. It just looks like a part of the bedrock and would be a good couple of kg in weight. Remember Jack's Rake us busy! |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(Pillar)