Rockfax Description
An outrageously good route up the well-protected overhanging horizontal crack, connecting two run-out slabs. The end of the crux has big fall potential, but it is into clean air - with a soft catch the swing into the side-wall should be manageable. Climb the left side of the slab past a 5c rockover - a low runner on the right won't keep you off the ground, but will stop you from going down the slope. Continue up to some microwires at 8m. At the top of the slab, arrange bomber gear as far left as you can before launching out across the overhanging wall - a brilliant sequence of powerful moves. The upper slab leads to a bolted abseil station. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An outrageously good route which climbs the well-protected overhanging horizontal crack connecting two run-out slabs. The end of the crux has big fall potential but it's into clean air, and with a soft catch the swing into the side wall should be ok. Grade uncertain - it's somewhere between E5 6b - E6 6c
Pete Harrison 29/Jun/2010.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Castell Cidwm)