Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb - the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up leftwards on good finger-holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to a steep groove and sprint up this (old peg at its top). Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax
FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969.
Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak To Do , Lime trad for hobbyists , Best Before 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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steveb2006 | 10 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse. |
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Davros the Psyched | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state. |
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Katya | 19 Jan, 2004 |
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βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)