Rockfax Description
An easier start to the North Buttress though not quite as good due to more vegetation and a less clean line. The vegetation also means the route is slow to dry. Follow Heather Terrace to below Green Gully. The buttress just left has 'GA' scratched onto the rock and is where Grooved Arete starts. 20m further along is a V-shaped gully with a small cone leading up to its base and a big flake on its right side.
1) Go up the gully which becomes tricky after 15m. Move out right and climb the rib past a heathery section before regaining the gully where it loses its definition to the left again.
2) Go up and left out of the gully to a ramp of heather and rock steps. This stops at a small ledge below an 8m wall.
3) Ascend the wall (tricky start) and step left before gaining a large heather and grass ledge, which is the junction with North Buttress Indirect.
4) 100m. More steady scrambling leads up and left before cutting back up and right to a prominent grassy terrace below Terrace Wall. Follow this up and left around the base of the wall to reach more appealing ground. Move left to below a series of grooves leading up diagonally leftwards on good rock, to join Eastern Terrace and follow this to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts 30m beyond Green Gully on Heather Terrace. Tricky route finding. Climb a rocky runnel to an ugly step. Move right and climb a short rib to regain the runnel. Don't carry on up; follow a ramp left across the face to a 10m wall. Either climb this or side step it delicately to the left. Walk uphill and climb several small walls on their left. When the Terrace Wall is reached move left along its base and climb rock steps and a chimney to reach North Gully. Either climb the gully to the North Ridge or just take a direct line to the right to reach it.
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , North Wales isnt just slate apparently , Tarquin’s Ogwen 20
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Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fawr)