Rockfax Description
II, 250m. A modern route featuring great corner and crack climbing. The belays are bolted except the last one.
1) 6b, 45m. Climb the corner exiting on the left to a ledge.
2) 5b, 40m. Climb straight above the belay and then follow a corner to a ledge.
3) 6a, 45m. Climb the big corner to the left of the belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left and climb the right side of a corner.
5) 6a, 45m. Keep following the corner system.
6) 6a, 45m. Keep following the corner passing a small roof on the left after the second bolt.
7) 6a, 50m. Follow the left crack that gradually eases in gradient.
8) 4c, 35m. Climb easy ground straight up.
9) 5c, 35m. Climb a corner to a sling belay on a spike.
Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
TD+ II 6b.About 20m left of central diedre. First pitch is a cracked slap with several bolts and then goes up a series of amazing right facing corners.
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.
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Grade: TD+ 6b+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)