25m.
Description taken from new routes pages of http://javu.co.uk:
75ft The hardest route at Baggy Point is also the showpiece of the Cheesegrater, offering highly technical and sustained climbing with good but hard to place protection. Begin as for Headcleaner at the very top of the pedestal. Move right out across the break to a good cam 5 placement in the large hole in The Nightfishing. Make a difficult sequence to gain a jug high on the left, from where good small cams can be placed and another big move up left leads to a large oblong hole (no gear). Powerful moves up right gain more indefinite cracks and a good cam 2. Psyche up and make a final desperate lunge from a poor pinch into the finishing crack, where a good large wire protects the precarious final moves. FA Dave Pickford, Ian Parnell. August 2005 Climbed headpoint style after abseil inspection. All gear placed on lead.
75ft The hardest route at Baggy Point is also the showpiece of the Cheesegrater, offering highly technical and sustained climbing with good but hard to place protection. Begin as for Headcleaner at the very top of the pedestal. Move right out across the break to a good cam 5 placement in the large hole in The Nightfishing. Make a difficult sequence to gain a jug high on the left, from where good small cams can be placed and another big move up left leads to a large oblong hole (no gear). Powerful moves up right gain more indefinite cracks and a good cam 2. Psyche up and make a final desperate lunge from a poor pinch into the finishing crack, where a good large wire protects the precarious final moves. FA Dave Pickford, Ian Parnell. August 2005 Climbed headpoint style after abseil inspection. All gear placed on lead.
Dave Pickford, Ian Parnell Aug/2005.
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Route of Interest
Hellbound
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Smoothlands)