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Some friends and I conducted some completely non-rigorous testing abseiling using the Petzl RAD Line (6mm hyperstatic cord) and thought it worth sharing. We only tested a small selection of the possible combinations due to how many there are. But if you want to know how it performs with a Taz Lov3 as we did, I have the answer!
Testing was done with a very short free hanging abseil off a tree. All testers were reasonably strong men topping out at 95kg.
As usual we aren't responsible for anyone silly enough to rely on anything here without testing it yourself, the conclusions could be very different for different body weights, strengths, and cord condition.
Full results spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CMTAxi_RMpY3VKb5VaYzS47sUM2NTTYq6et...
I have some videos, not all great quality I'm afraid.
Revo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10I0QvyF_AUokfvsiGt23t-KOSHsl5vYZ/view?usp=...
Grigri+: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-wEJWmVP4SQ2-b0bhzw1ttip5IRiKXOB/view?usp=...
Grigri 2019: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-xo8YC4tB_iToHJ9ftiq9QZApebFHXFJ/view?usp=...
Taz Lov3 (1 strand): https://drive.google.com/file/d/10-UcIiDna5D8EdkusJyRUY29DOEEQKSs/view?usp=...
Taz Lov3 (2 stands): https://drive.google.com/file/d/101EoEbWGXfs2Q1IPJsy_UsoJMLc5eOKX/view?usp=...
Italian hitch (1 strand): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c08IABBH3wtoSO4vGCNTAwMfcqXN2Vq9/view?usp=...
Italian hitch (2 strands): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c-_POai2q0pII-ahrfyhU5cMf3e13HwV/view?usp=...
Super italian hitch: https://drive.google.com/file/d/108-YRAVRCn5iNsddlFZKSKMhdoHyX7-Y/view?usp=...
Gigajul (assisted mode): https://drive.google.com/file/d/108D4j_zVlny9vw2zSaSy_z73Bw285A-3/view?usp=...
Gigajul (manual mode 1 carabiner): https://drive.google.com/file/d/10A20ECBMSZYCcq86nB6ElofnGrJEnJhg/view?usp=...
Gigajul (manual mode 2 carabiners): https://drive.google.com/file/d/10CI8hjaNqnXVHrBMQIO9tvOC2EOSlVgE/view?usp=...
The most interesting conclusion was that our tester thought an italian hitch with 1 strand was very hard to control and would have very quickly resulted in free falling, but Petzl give that 2 stars.
13
In reply to JMAB:
Interesting & public spirited stuff. Would have been interesting to try some of the devices that are actually intended for thinner ropes - Microjul etc
3
In reply to JMAB:
I use an italian hitch as a means of belaying in a cave with thick crudy ropes. Had never considered it as an option for abseiling. Surely you'd only contemplate using it if you'd dropped your belay/abseil device?
In reply to Dave Cundy:
It's often used for belay and abseil, pretty harsh on the rope and not my first choice but a valid abseil "device" and IMHO absolutely essential to be familiar with using it for belay and abseil in case some circumstance means you don't have other options.
Very good testing thanks, the fact that some results are "splat" is scary
3
In reply to JMAB:
> The most interesting conclusion was that our tester thought an italian hitch with 1 strand was very hard to control and would have very quickly resulted in free falling, but Petzl give that 2 stars.
The italian hitch on one strand of rad line actually works well when in a combination with a french prusik below.
In reply to AlanLittle:
Yeah that would have been interesting but the only one we had was the scream (which is actually rated down to 5mm). It only performed marginally better than normal ATC type devices with an extra carabiner though.
1
In reply to Stefan Jacobsen:
Will give that a go next time!
I was a bit wary of using a prusik to make the descent controllable. Feels scary to have a prusik be something other than a backup.
If I ever have to do this in real life I'm using the super Italian though, was far better than anything else.
1
In reply to JMAB:
> Will give that a go next time!
> I was a bit wary of using a prusik to make the descent controllable. Feels scary to have a prusik be something other than a backup.
> If I ever have to do this in real life I'm using the super Italian though, was far better than anything else.
If one device or knot is insufficient, use two.
Had controllable descents on very thin ropes by using belay plates and italian hitches in series.
Too many variations to describe, but probably best pre-tested with safety rope.
Post edited at 13:57
In reply to JMAB:
> Will give that a go next time!
> If I ever have to do this in real life I'm using the super Italian though, was far better than anything else.
I agree; the super Italian is super good for abseiling, especially on thin and slippery ropes. And it doesn’t kink the rope as the standard one does.
1
In reply to Stefan Jacobsen:
Is that the one also know as "double HMS" or "double Munter"?
Where it doesn't kink the rope under load and increases friction a lot? (kinking not much of a problem for just belaying with a classic HMS, but defo for abseiling on one).
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