UKH

I had a bad fall about 3 months ago and dislocated my big toe (it was about 45 degrees bent out if shape 🤢. Yesterday was my first time back at the indoor wall (I've just been doing easy trad) and it was incredibly painfall to climb on, especially on small holds. 

Anyone else done somthing similar? How long did it take to recover? Any tips on how to deal with it, can you tape toes to make them stronger? The Dr's and physios, who have been great with the other injuries I sustained aren't very interested in toes (which I can understand as my feet are rank). 

Just logged back on after looking at nhs website for advice on my painful little toe. TBH I got the impression they are not really bothered.

I think I just bruised my little toe a couple of weeks ago. My wife pointed out that as I could manage 4 munroes a day  , the nhs probably would not do anything. Only hurts every other step . Not sure if I can climb on it, will have a go if it stops raining.

I stubbed my big toe badly about 30 years ago. It still clicks every time I prepare it for putting on a rock shoe but not a problem on the rock, especially with stiffer shoes, maybe that might help you.

Regarding  the big toe injuries, the nhs seem to take them more seriously. 

Best of luck with the other injuries, you seemed to get a good bashing .

I broke my big left toe in a motorcycle accident about 20 years ago. I went to A & E which confirmed the break but practically there was little they could do except strap it up a bit and advise me to stay off it. I remember it being surprisingly debilitating as, until you break a big toe, you really don't know how much your balance and mobility depends on big toes.  It took a good few months to get back to near normal. Thankfully no ongoing issues.

Yeah, I get the impression that toes are like ribs, there's not a lot you can do but suck it up and wait to recover. I just find it mad that my arm (which literally had the bone sticking out) is now largely painful free but the toe is still an absolute PITA. 

Good luck. Some expert advice here

vimeo.com/42893621

Wow, what flexibility excercises are you doing?

Hope things improve soon for you!

Hi Ebdon. I’m a North Wales based climbing physio. I had two bad foot injuries myself and learned a lot about feet in the process! Drop me a line if you’d like to chat. Isi (Isi Booker Physio)

For my arm or toe? For the arm absolutely tonnes (about an hour a day of strengthening and stretching) I've really put the effort into the rehab, which is why after 3 months I can climb again.

For the toe very little apart from manually stretching it either with my hand or by kneeling.  The problem being physios seem to know lots about elbow rehab but not so much about toes.

Thanks, (and sorry to hear you've had to learn by experience!) I've sent you a message, any advice would be very welcome.

Wasn’t a serious question… was just wondering how a big toe can be a PITA …

Ah I get it. Sorry! I ruined a pretty good joke there!

I've just replied to your email - check your junk if you can't see it!

I've done something similar and it got better on its own eventually.  I missed the jug at the top of masters edge and hit the wall toe first near the bottom. I found that climbing in a flatter stiffer pair of shoes (Anasazi rather than solutions) allowed me to keep climbing in the following few weeks.  I didn't wear my solutions for about 2 months.  At the start of a session it took a while at first to warm my toes up on smaller holds before I could stand on small things.  It seems ok now but its taken probably 4 months.