UKH

Not sure I've ever felt so sand-bagged in all my years of climbing, but what a stunning place for an adventure! Hopefully this trip report (with lots of photos) will inform, entertain and warn in equal measure...

https://mistymountainhop.net/a-beasting-in-paklenica/

Would love to hear about others' experiences!

Cheers, Dave

In reply to MrRiley:

I've been and have never been so sandbagged in my life. There was a 4c with a move that wouldn't be out of place on a V3/4 j particularly remember. Essentially nice cruisy east route, stupid hard crux, run out to hell awkward corner to chains. Terrifying. Sailed up a 6c after that. 

I also climbed some lovely routes and the rock is amazing but the grades make no sense. 

The other gorge is equally amazing, but alas no climbing.

In reply to MrRiley:

Worth taking a trad rack on the routes then? 

In reply to MrRiley:

‘Add two grades’ was how we operated both times we visited. Ace spot and pretty odd in the lower gorge.

In reply to MrRiley:

Did not feel to intimidated ... yes, take a medium rack and a few slings for multipitch climbs. The grading is not holiday island, but not to far off either in my opinion. Its probably the specific rock and the size of the routes, that makes things different at a specific grade.

In reply to MrRiley:

I'm actually here now for the week, it's such a great place. The rock is super sharp so tomorrow is a rest day hike to allow the fingertips to recover. Agree about grading, it's not a place to massage your ego! We've also found some of the routes to be super committing, but some are very well bolted. And the wildlife here is incredible - Swallowtail butterflies everywhere, a Praying Mantis, snakes, and apparently bears higher up in the hills. Magnificent. 

In reply to MrRiley:

Excellent place: been 3 times. Grading certainly not Kalymnos but not that far off (though I’m used to Belgian grades). Definitely carry a small rack for longer routes but I remember doing a great 8 pitch 6c on Anica Kuk fully bolted.

Don't forget to eat at Dinko’s and Krka Park’s a good rest day

In reply to MrRiley:

great write up - was it hot ? I was thinking about going there in the summer hoping for a shady gorge route being available. Is this a futile idea?

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Haha glad it wasn't just me then!

In reply to SkirtingBoard:

That's great, good luck with your trip! Yes we were amazed by the wildlife too, feels very wild in the park

In reply to MrRiley:

Been twice, enjoyed the trips, agree about grades, but great destination.

Dave