UKH

I've gazed into the leap a few times and it's seemed pretty dank in there and have been down a couple of times on what would seem like good cons and the starts were still a bit dampish.

What are the main combat indicators of good connies in the Leap? Sun, low humidity and a slight on crag breeze are usually what I go for on most seacliffs but if anyone has a magic formula for leap conditions I'd be interested.

In reply to Ennerdaleblonde:

I think I'd prefer it if you refrained from posting.

To the op, I've not climbed down there loads but it's been fine in warm dry spells in the afternoon.

In reply to dinodinosaur:

It's always wet at the bottom. Just stay out. It's not worth battling a couple of meters of damp holds to access the other 40 odd meters of class climbing in a stunning location.

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Its best on a low humidity day, which usually means a N /NE wind, the stronger the better.

Onshore winds tend to be more humid, both because they come off the sea, and because they are usually coming from somewhere warmer where the air can pick up water more easily. 

Afternoons /evenings are better too. 

In reply to abcdefg:

I asked a simple question and got stupid sassy replies (my mum once said if you haven't got anything good to say don't say anything at all), but then again I don't know what else I expected from UKC... 

I could just ab down and check, but how about using my gray matter and asking someone who might know a bit more than I do about the leap specifically so that I can make a more accurate guess about whether I'm going to end up jumaring back out again. Dan Arkles reply was exactly what I was after and all I needed

Peace out all

In reply to dinodinosaur:

That's better, see, you can do it. Go later in the day, sit on top for a while and listen. If the kool kids down there are using words like smeggy, gopping and geetex whilst they power whimper their way from pro to pro, leave it for another day. Go to the headland instead.

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Fair enough, and good luck to you.

Enjoy your climbing - that's the only reason for doing it.

In reply to Lankyman:

Maybe that should have been „wombat“? Damned autocorrect …

In reply to Lankyman:

Maybe that should have been „wombat“? Damned autocorrect …

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Those replies have now been removed, as we just happened upon them this morning. In future, please report all such posts. We want UKC to be a welcoming and helpful environment. This isn’t to say that it can’t be a place of robust debate, but when someone comes on asking a simple question and receives unhelpful answers and comments with the sole intent of humiliation, that is unacceptable posting etiquette and will not be tolerated on site - so much so that the individual in question has just received a three week posting restriction.

In reply to dinodinosaur: I know it rather well as I have developed a considerable number of the routes there; leave it until the evening to allow it to dry out

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks Rob, I'll be sure to report it next time now I know. Had great conditions in the Leap today not even slightly damp or greasy and had it all to myself. Low humidity, wind, not too hot, left it til later in the day, thanks all who helped.

In reply to Ennerdaleblonde:

That doesn’t work if there is no one else there. 

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Just to add to Dan’s response, a local who knows the cliffs really well also said that a northerly wind seems to dry it out. It sounds counterintuitive but Dan’s explanation makes sense.

Another tip is to check for wet streaks on the walls towards the boulder choke. Those bits are the last to dry out, so if it’s visually dry there, it’s probable fine on the more landward routes (whereas if there are wet streaks, the landward routes might still be ok but probably not primo).

Temperature is another consideration. It’s a great place to hide on a hot day but humidity is relative to temperature and warm air can hold more moisture, so 80% at 25C is going to involve more humid air than 80% at 15C. Hence grease is perhaps more likely at higher temperatures, all other factors being equal. I’m happy to be proven wrong with this theory but I did have a couple of weeks in Pembroke a few weeks ago when the headline temperature was 15-20C and there was no grease at all (albeit we didn’t go in the Leap), whereas from my experience grease is not uncommon in August when it’s warmer.

Sounds like you got what you wished for in the end!

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Soloing then?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

To be honest, I took the now deleted posts as being a bit of gentle ribbing and find it quite amazing that someone has been banned for making them.