UKH

...probably dates from the early 70s (er, 1970s.) It used to be my favourite nut, and I'd like to start using it again. Is it still safe, or would it just crumble into dust under load?

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

The nut will be fine. 

If its on wire, then that's the weak point, I'd expect it to be work hardened and brittle by now. Is it still flexible? Any broken strands?

If its on cord, replace that and you are good to go. 

In reply to Dan Arkle:

As part of my research for this response, I came across the vintage climbing website that are selling a full set of these for $1000 and BD ATC belay devices for $100 

Consider selling! 

In reply to Dan Arkle:

Anything for a couple of original Sticht plates?

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

My first ever rack consisted of two Moacs, a Chouinard Hex 7 and Chouinard Stopper 6, it got me up a surprising number of routes

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

If its been  sat in a cupboard i dont see that work hardeing would occur.  If the wire looks good then I'd think it ok

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Why did you stop using it? Mine were mothballed when WC Rocks appeared.

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Probably the only way the metal could be compromised is sea water corrosion.

Clean it back to bare metal with soapy water and old toothbrush/ rag. If it looks OK it probably is.

In reply to Pedro50:

I have a theory that nuts work better nearer the manufacturers base , where presumably the design is tested and refined.

In Yosemite,  the British nuts are  often too grabby and sophisticated,  finding the BD stoppers and hexes more user friendly , at least on  the free climbing grades I climb.

In reply to Rick Graham:

This makes sense. On my first Yosemite visit in 1980 I took two Rocks to supplement my Chouinard stoppers. They both got stuck and abandoned 😕 Never had any problems back home. 

In reply to Dan Arkle:

Bloody hell....some of the prices on that site.

I most be sitting on several grands worth of old nut and crabs