UKH

Hi! I am staying in Chamonix this summer for the best part of July with the main intention to focus on climbing big alpine routes (TD...ED). Also don't mind to do shorter and punchier alpine cragging routes like:

- Aiguille du Midi, Rebuffat Route, TD+, 6a, 200 m
- Grand Capucin, Swiss Route and O Sole Mio, ED-, 6a...6b, 300 m
- Pointe Lachenal, Contamine Route, TD, 6a+, 250 m
- Aiguille de Roc: Children of the Moon, l'intégrale, TD+, 6b, 550 m

But mostly interested in long classic routes such as Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur (ED-). Could you guys help me make a shortlist of similar summer classics / hidden gems? I was convinced there are loads of topics / articles on this subject already, but couldn't find one!

Thanks in advance!

Cordier Pillar (TD+ 6b) is mega classic. 

Its 35 years since I did any of those routes but in any good conditions/ weather they were stupidly busy. I think they will be even busier nowadays.

Two alternatives are to try them in less than ideal conditions or go on the Italian side of the range. I have done mega classics there in ideal weather on a weekend with hardly anybody else in sight.

Honestly get a guidebook - the Rockfax one will be good for this and start chewing thro' the topos.  There aren't so many routes the same length as the Walker - sometihng on the Dru?

What have you already done there? 

For the shorter punchier ones you could do worse than the Piola classics behind the Envers hut:

Le marchand de sable (TD+ 6a+) for instance 

Another idea might be to spend a couple of days at the Couvercle hut with a great view of the Walker; the Voie Contamine - Labrunie (TD 6a+) also starts right behind the hut and is a great climb.

Those seem amazing, I added them to the list. Thanks for the input!

I was looking at Dru as well (the Allain-Leininger route). But from the lack of ascent logs in previous years in camptocamp I figured it has something to do with the rock quality. Perhaps not the route to climb in July? If anyone knows better, I'd appreciate.

I've only climbed in Chamonix in winter couple of times, near Mont Blanc du Tacul (Supercouloir and some other shorter ones).

The Italian side seems interesting! Any route recommendations?

Children of the Moon, l'intégrale and the other long route at the envers Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune (TD+ 6b) are both as big as the cordier pillar imo. Very different from the rebuffat on the midi and less busy

The Italian side is much quieter. Similar to the Walker Spur there's the freney pillar and Peuturey integral. Also Bonatti-Oggioni Route - Original Route, Red Pillar (ED1 6a) is supposed to be very good.

On the grand jorasse the Tronchey Ridge (TD) has a nice bivy hut, and the east face has many difficult routes that you never seem to hear british climbers talk about - there not even on ukc. 

Probably anything listed in the 100 best routes style books.

Stand out for me is the Noire South Ridge.

Personally, glad to do it lightweight as a route in itself rather than lug up all the other gear needed for the Integral.  A serious mountain though.

The South Diedre of Tour des Jorasses (Macheto route) ED-. I did this in 2002. Excellent route and considered one of the best in the range. Glaciated approach and rock fall. This maybe worse now.

2nd the suggestion of 'South Diedre of Tour des Jorasses' though not sure what access like these days.

Petite Jorasses has some excellent long rock routes.

Rock fax won't help you much for mixed type routes, but all very condition dependent.

NE spur of Les Droites might be fairly agnostic to conditions. Dru couloir worth considering if things stay whitish and you get cold temps. Mostly poor rock, so needs to be done as a mixed route .

Also if cold some mixed route options on Grande Pillier d'Angle

The Cordier Pillar TD+ Aiguille de Roc. In 2002 this route was unsullied by bolts. 

Since your familiar with Mont Blanc du Tacul the Gervasutti Pillar is an excellent route and possible in a day if you're fast. I did it with one bivouac. 

Not sure there’s any bolts on the cordier pillar now? Some pegs for sure.