UKH

Hi All,

Has anyone on here been up the Aiguille du Genepi (the one next to the Aiguille du Tour not the peak of the same name in the Argentiere basin) from the Albert Premier hut? 

There is a photo of the route on summitpost here:

https://www.summitpost.org/aiguille-du-g-n-pi/609472

I don't have a route description and I'd not even noticed the Peak until I came across the photo.  The caption on the photo says 'easy scrambling' so I'm guessing its about Grade F in alpine terms?  Does anyone have any experience of this route?  I won't be over that way until August so current conditions aren't important.

Many thanks

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

I go there every year.  Nice view, that feels like you are right beside Ag Tour without all the glacier work if you are solo. (Although Tour is few hundred metres higher.)

That picture sums it up. Just climb the blocks behind the hut to ridge, and then follow the "loose and quite exposed in places" ridge R to first pk then a hard L to main summit.  Mostly not that exposed and basically nice walk/scramble.

In reply to BruceM:

Thank you. Sounds perfect for what I'm after. How long does it usually take you from the Albert Prem?

Have you tried the ridge in the other direction up to Point des Grands? (Or even further) wondered if that would be similar too.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

As Bruce says it’s a nice scramble with impeccable views - if you start a bit before dawn you will see the sun hitting the tops. A little loose in places. But no snow and ice stuff needed. Strongly Recomended 

you would be back in the valley after lunch

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

I thought Genepy was up behind the Argentière Hut. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

I always do it as a day trip from the carpark and travel light in good summer weather.  So I'm not too focused on time.  Back on the ground after maybe 10-12 hours?  But that includes lots of sitting around soaking up sun and views.

Maybe 1.5-2hrs to the hut. <1hr chill/eat on the slabs above. 1hr to the ridgeline.  Another 1-1.5 hrs along ridge to first or main peak depending (15 mins between pks) .  So 2.5-3hrs from hut should easily get you up.

I've never gone back L along the ridge as I'm usually wanting a trip upwards as high as poss from the ground.  But it looks like an easier walk, and people do regularly go along the entire ridge.

(I didn't know I could post pics as a non-paying member, but will try below.  Pic from the 1st pk back down the ridge, showing refuge and valley. Also views.)

The ridge on the other side of the Tour Glacier up to Bec Rouge Sup is also good fun.  Very long.  Easy walking, some scrambling.  Awesome views.

In reply to BruceM:

Thank you, that's perfect.  We will be in the area in the summer holidays and Mrs. Swede and the kids are keen to walk up and do a bivi above the Albert Premier.  They've done lots of wild camping but never a bivi and the kids have never seen a glacier so are very excited.  I spotted this as something I could get up early and nip off to do while they have a lie in and leisurely breakfast.  Hopefully I won't be gone more than 3 hrs max (I'm generally hill fit and move pretty quickly on this sort of ground).

Also planning on an early morning run up Mont Buet at some point in the week and hoping to take the kids up one of the via cordata routes.  Hopefully the weather will be kind to us!

Let me know if you've any other suggestions of quick and easy solo jaunts that might be of interest.

Is it still possible to get water for free outside the hut?  There used to be a water pipe you could help yourself to but I'm going back nearly 15years here.

Thanks  

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Yes, this summer there was a pipe right next to the refuge which was flowing all the time.  I didn't bother to consider where it was coming from though or whether it was drinkable or not.  No matter though, there is running water in the basins in the loos which people were happily brushing their teeth in so I assume was okay to drink.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

erm … 1st post, 1st sentence …

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks all.  This has been a really pleasant and useful thread.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

No probs.

Plenty of water runoff above the hut from the snowfields above.  That's where the hut takes it from.  And you'll easily get up and back from somewhere awesome in under 3 hours.

I think you have a pretty good selection of ideas already.  But La Jonction is always a good blast that gets you right up to the glacier under Du'Tacul, Midi, and Gouter.  Just up, up, up... Maybe you could take the kids?

And maybe Ag. Crochues from Argentiere/Lac Blanc side.  Big day though.  Or take the family to Lac Blanc that way via the ladders.

Whatever you do, how can you not have a great time.  Enjoy!

In reply to McHeath:

Fair play.