Starting a new long distance trail is always exciting, and even more so if said trail goes through Glen Affric, often hailed as the most beautiful glen in Scotland. Throw in a night in one of the most remote youth hostels in the UK and a walk below some of the best ridge lines in the Highlands and you have a perfect combination.

Running from Loch Ness to the west Coast, the Affric Kintail Way starts in Drumnadrochit, a village better known for the many tourist attractions linked to the famous Nessie. Quickly enough, though, it takes you away from all the frenzy and into Glen Urquhart, then along the length of Glen Affric before hopping over the watershed to descend to the coast at Kintail. At only 70 kilometres (44 miles) long it can be easily completed in four days or less, making it a great objective for a short holiday or even a long weekend. But the quality of this route is out of all proportion to its relatively modest length.

Officially opened in 2015 with the intention of promoting an area of outstanding natural beauty, the way links together paths and rights of way that have existed, in some cases, for centuries, with newly built sections. All of these are exceptionally well waymarked and go through land that is in large part owned by either the National Trust for Scotland or the Forestry Commission, as well as some private estates.

I walked this trail at the start of June with a group of motivated clients from all over the UK and Europe; here's how it went and what to expect.

Day 1 - Drumnadrochit to Cannich

Distance: 25.7km 

Elevation: 493m 

We left the shores of Loch Ness on a quiet Monday morning accompanied by a rare Scottish sunshine, even rarer in this extremely wet spring and summer. As soon as we left Drumnadrochit the scenery changed abruptly and we found ourselves immersed in the greenest of valleys. Glen Urquhart is only minutes away from one of the busiest villages in the Highlands but it feels so remote, a great location to start our adventure.

On day one we tackled 26km of forest tracks and got to know each other a little better. The team was made up of people from London, Scotland and the Netherlands, all keen hikers ready to discover this little corner of the Highlands. We found our pace and made the most of what we knew was going to be our only day of sunshine of the week. We walked along forest tracks past Loch Meiklie and down into the beautiful hamlet of Shenval, then we followed a brand new section of the route all the way to the small, quiet village of Cannich. A good first day and an easy introduction to the way. We settled into our accommodation and relaxed for the night, but the best was yet to come.

Day 2 - Cannich to River Affric car park

Distance: 19.5km 

Elevation: 353m

The start of day two felt like a continuation of day one. We started by walking along more forest tracks, climbing out of the village with great views of the glen below. But after passing Dog Falls and walking over to the southern shores of Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin the scenery started to change. We were entering the heart of the Glen Affric National Nature Reserve and the forest here was just something else. The commercial plantations of sitka spruce, a common sight pretty much everywhere in Scotland, gave way to native Scots pine forests, much more open and brighter, where lots of other species have space to grow. The forest floor was covered with shrubs and mosses of the brightest shades of green, so full of life, and the views over the loch were just amazing. I have visited some pretty spectacular places in Scotland throughout the years but this was my first visit to Glen Affric, and I absolutely fell in love.

We continued walking along the loch until we reached the River Affric car park, just between Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin and Loch Affric. A shorter day compared to yesterday, we were done walking by early afternoon. As this was an ortganised group we were driven back to Cannich for some rest and to get ready for the next two days, when a slightly different adventure awaited us (those who are DIYing without  vehicle support could camp in the glen, or continue to complete our day 3 on day 2).

Day 3 - River Affric car park to Alltbeithe youth hostel

Distance: 13.8km

Elevation: 107m 

On day three we started our two-day mission that would see us crossing the whole of Glen Affric to reach Morvich, out west by the sea - the wildest section of the route. The plan included a night in one of the most remote youth hostels in the UK at Alltbeithe, with no road access and just below some of the main Munros in the area, a popular spot for hikers to spend a couple of days. The weather wasn't particularly kind to us but this didn't stop us from enjoying the quality of the place. They say that Glen Affric is the most beautiful glen in Scotland and it is true, no doubt about it. It's remote and wild, it has lochs and forests and endless moors, it truly is a gem.

The temperatures were very low for June and it had been raining the previous day. But as we got out of the van we could not believe what we saw: there was fresh snow on the higher summits! Snow in June? Scotland truly never fails to amaze. We wrapped up warm and started walking towards the hostel, following a track on the southern side of Loch Affric. We took our time and enjoyed every step, and after 14km we reached our destination and home for the night.

The Alltbeithe youth hostel sure isn't like any other hostels I've seen before. It's way more similar to a mountain hut, like those found in the Alps. Basic but with more than what you need, we had a kitchen to cook our food and even a hot shower if we wanted. But the true beauty of this place lies in the people that you find there. We spent the night with fellow hikers who were in the area to bag some Munros, and the night ended sharing stories of our mountain adventures and drinking a well deserved dram of whisky.

Day 4 - Alltbeithe youth hostel to Morvich

Distance: 15.9km 

Elevation: 112m 

On the last morning of our trip we woke up early and took our time having breakfast at the hostel, soaking up the last of its beautiful atmosphere. After packing all of our stuff and saying goodbye to our fellow hikers we started out towards Morvich, following the road-free glen between some of the highest hills in the north Highlands. Again it was a mix of sunshine and showers, a constant of the week, but we didn't mind too much. The only downside to this was an incredibly boggy path, but we managed to keep our feet relatively dry... almost! We walked past Camban bothy, one of the best I've seen so far, and took advantage of the shelter to have a break.

From here we then started our descent back to the valley floor. A steep rocky path took us down to the River Croe, where we had some lunch. We then continued along the river onto a wider gravel track that took us all the way into Morvich. Done: We had walked the Affric Kintail Way and what an amazing experience it had been!

That night we got together for a final meal as a group, before everyone went their separate ways, and for a little celebration. The Affric Kintail Way is certainly not the most difficult long distance trek in Scotland but it is up there with the most beautiful. Its remoteness makes it special and the natural biodiversity of the place makes it unique. It's an adventure to add to any hiker's trekking list.

Accommodation

Accommodation availability varies quite a lot along the way. There are plenty of options in Drumnadrochit, from hotels to B&Bs and a campsite. In Cannich you have very limited options, including some B&Bs, a caravan park and a campsite. Same for Morvich, at the end of the walk, where there is a campsite and only a couple of B&Bs, but some more accommodation can be found just a little further down the road, at Invershiel, Shiel Bridge and Ratagan. There is no accommodation at the end of day two, at the Glen Affric car park, so transfer arrangements might be made in advance for this day (the best option is to book a taxi and go back to Cannich for the night). The only accommodation available for day three is the Glen Affric Youth Hostel at Alltbeithe that must be booked in advance and is only open during the summer months (April to October). Note that a sleeping bag is needed for the hostel and hikers are also required to cook their own food.

Of course another option along this route is to camp, making use of the campsites in Drumnadrochit, Cannich and Morvich. It is possible to camp outside the youth hostel and to use the facilities for a small fee (check in advance!). As an alternative, wild camping is allowed as long as the Scottish Outdoor Access Code is followed. Neat the Youth hostel, Camban bothy offers a more basic free alternative.

When to go

The Affric Kintail Way can be walked at any time of year but the preferred months for most hikers are going to be April to October. If walking the way in winter it is important to bring the right equipment and have the right skills to be safe in the winter mountains. Also note that the youth hostel at Allbeithe is not open during the winter months.

The advantages of walking it during the spring, summer and autumn months are more stable weather (haha), longer days and no snow on the ground (generally). The driest months are often (but not always!) April and May, sometimes September. Be aware that the mighty Scottish midge is quite active from the end of May through to September.

Maps and information

The maps needed for this route are the OS Landranger 25, 26 and 33. There is also a specific Affric Kintail Way map produced by Harvey Maps.

Lots of information on the route, including a detailed description of each stage and .gpx files, can be found on the official website or on Walkhighlands.