There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An ancient tester. Pull onto the slab at a big pocket, head right to delicate moves to the flat ledge. Finish up the polished corner. © Rockfax
FA. Henry Bishop et al. early 1910s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , The Alf Bridge Challenge , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 14 May |
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βeta: Very funny and easy for the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very funny and easy for the grade. |
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Dave__horner | 3 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Got my red cam stuck and couldn't get it out. if any one can please message, thanks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Got my red cam stuck and couldn't get it out. if any one can please message, thanks |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: layback start? delicate padding up the rib and then mantle of a stonking hand jam. | βeta? | |
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βeta: layback start? delicate padding up the rib and then mantle of a stonking hand jam. |
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cmsg | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice route, and I agree with this grade (HS 4c). Led a total beginner up it thinking "HS 4b? He'll get up it in the end." Poor choice for an introductory route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, and I agree with this grade (HS 4c). Led a total beginner up it thinking "HS 4b? He'll get up it in the end." Poor choice for an introductory route. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 28 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: A popular alternative start is 1m right. Better holds for a good layback, but still a 4c move or two. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A popular alternative start is 1m right. Better holds for a good layback, but still a 4c move or two. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)