Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 

Rockfax Description
Step left from Liquid Courage and make some hard moves onto the upper wall. Can be gained from Cathy's Clown - same grade. © Rockfax

Simon Cundy 1988.

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User Date Notes
Stoney Boy 17 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed in 1988 after Steve Wigmore had cleaned the runner slots out of mud. Never been done before that and then got curiously incorporated into another route....
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed in 1988 after Steve Wigmore had cleaned the runner slots out of mud. Never been done before that and then got curiously incorporated into another route....
193 11 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 1992 are first ascent details
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 1992 are first ascent details
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Curiously described as Cathy's Clown Right-hand in BMC Limestone North with no FA details though. This is the original version from 1988 although it is obviously possible to reach the meat of this climb from either route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Curiously described as Cathy's Clown Right-hand in BMC Limestone North with no FA details though. This is the original version from 1988 although it is obviously possible to reach the meat of this climb from either route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book

Guidebook Correction

Peak Limestone (2020)

Alan James - Rockfax
22 Apr, 2022

Topo has line for Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too far to the right

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Route of Interest
Nutcracker

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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