Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 hour. An enjoyable option when the Northwest Ridge is busy, which it often is. There is minimal technical difficulty but the traverse across the top of the Chevalier Couloir is exposed and can feel delicate in icy conditions.
1) Cross the bergschrund and front point up to below the rocky outcrop.
2) Traverse under the rock to reach the 'demi-lune' (half moon) snow arĂȘte at the top of the Chevalier Couloir.
3) Cross the 'demi-lune' and scramble easily up the final rocks to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the Col des Montets go up easy slopes on the left. Go up steeper slopes to the right of the ridge proper and join it at the demi-lune finish to the Chevalier Couloir. Continue up to the summit rocks. Sections at 50/55 degrees.
Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , Alpine Peaks and routes
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Grade: PD ***
(Mont Blanc)