Rockfax Description
Although the climbing takes a while to get going, the top pitch is one of the most memorable and exposed on the crag giving excellent well-protected climbing. Start as for The Crack.
1) 4b, 22m. As for The Crack.
2) 4c, 19m. Move up right to a block below an overhang, then climb the wide crack above it to a stance and belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb up the corner and move out left to a small ledge on the arete. Continue steeply on the right side of the arete, then move left around it to the base of a thin crack. Climb up the crack before stepping right to easier ground and the top not far above. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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emmawhitley | 12 Apr |
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βeta: I would definitely recommend this route after lots of rain because it wakes the first two pitches so much more exciting but still very doable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I would definitely recommend this route after lots of rain because it wakes the first two pitches so much more exciting but still very doable. |
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MikeLeeds | 28 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Don't have a satsuma in your pocket for the 2nd pitch. I did and it got completely squashed as I jammed myself into the crack and the juice dribbled down my leg. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Don't have a satsuma in your pocket for the 2nd pitch. I did and it got completely squashed as I jammed myself into the crack and the juice dribbled down my leg. |
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MikeLeeds | 10 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Don't have a satsuma in your pocket for the 2nd pitch. I did and it got completely squashed as I jammed myself into the crack and the juice dribbled down my leg. It smelt nice though. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Don't have a satsuma in your pocket for the 2nd pitch. I did and it got completely squashed as I jammed myself into the crack and the juice dribbled down my leg. It smelt nice though. |
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LakesWinter | 11 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: I think this is HVS 5b. Well protected all the way on the hard pitch and only a short section of 5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think this is HVS 5b. Well protected all the way on the hard pitch and only a short section of 5b. |
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Martin Cooper | 21 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: James did P1 of Outside Tokyo to start and ran it together with P2 of GS. Lovely top pitch. Nothing as hard as the hard bits on Kipling Groove Better description for top pitch would be - from the stance, climb up up and leftwards to the edge of a hidden ledge. Climb the crack above the R hand end of this and at its finish move L around the arete. Climb the thin crack and wall above moving rightwards to finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: James did P1 of Outside Tokyo to start and ran it together with P2 of GS. Lovely top pitch. Nothing as hard as the hard bits on Kipling Groove Better description for top pitch would be - from the stance, climb up up and leftwards to the edge of a hidden ledge. Climb the crack above the R hand end of this and at its finish move L around the arete. Climb the thin crack and wall above moving rightwards to finish. |
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Jaomes | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: P1 and P3. P3 amazing, like a sport route after the first few metres | βeta? | |
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βeta: P1 and P3. P3 amazing, like a sport route after the first few metres |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Crag (Borrowdale))