Climbs 15
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 207m a.s.l
Blood Eagle 6c © Andy Cowley
Cloven Crag:
Is a tranquil haven with smashing views Northwards. It’s a compact, steep sided, arrowhead shaped valley located West of Sandy Crag with South West and North East facing slopes.
There are a jumble of boulders on either side and on the valley floor. The largest of these have been cleaned and developed giving 15 problems ranging from 6a to 7b+ but mainly contained within the mid 6th grade, on good rock, with, on the whole, good flat landings.
This area has been climbed at in the past but details were not recorded. For completeness I have used my routes names, grades and descriptions.
The same as Sandy Crag (see NMC routes guidebook for a full description) but park in the tarmaced layby North of Elsdon on the B6341 where the circular route for Darden Lough starts.
Cloven Crag is visible from the layby.
Parking location - what3words: headboard.airstrip.testy
Please park considerately and avoid blocking the field entrance in the layby.
Walk-in time is around 15-20 minutes on established paths. Follow the way markers for Darden Lough.
Pass through the gate at the end of the layby and follow the path down to the stream, over a bridge and ladder style. Walk up the incline to a fork in the path. Take the right fork and follow this to another small uphill section until the valley and boulders come back into view. Head up towards the right ridge of the valley (vague path through the heather. Look for a pile of stones on the right of the main path.) where the first boulder of the circuit is found.
The circuit follows the valley round in an anticlockwise direction then drops down to the valley floor and the exit path.
What3words has been used for boulder locations.
I have created a pdf mini guide for the area. The link is below:
https://acrobat.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:3090d3b9-8a9b-394c-a8da-45c92dff1ad1
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