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Climbing conditions on Peak moorland crags

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 kmsands 09 May 2024

Going up to the Peak tomorrow with a couple of people. I'd be most keen to go to one of the higher moorland crags, like Shining Clough, Dovestones Edge, or Kinder, However, someone with more experience than me has advised it's probably too early in the season and you'd probably want a longer dry spell before risking disappointment after a long walk-in.

Has anyone been to either of those crags this week and can confirm if this is the case?

 mrphilipoldham 09 May 2024
In reply to kmsands:

There will be stuff that will be dry, not every bit of them is minging green contrary to popular belief. A few dry days and you’re good to go away from the worst of the green, or seepage/drainage lines. If you’re not wanting a wasted day out and only operating at the lower end of the grade spectrum then maybe the Kinder Southern edges would be best.. the biggest group and get any and all the sun that’s going.

 PaulJepson 09 May 2024
In reply to kmsands:

Went to Standing Stones (south-facing) last weekend and it was a bit green and scrittley with quite a few horizontal seeps/some classic routes dripping. It was climbable but definitely not bon connies. The moor above that might be a bit wetter than that of Shining Clough but Shining Clough is higher and north-facing. Dovestones Edge is opposite Standing Stones and also North-facing.

I expect it will be fine if you drop a grade or so but expect a fair bit of scrittle, pulling grass out of cracks, some routes to be out of action because of seeps, etc. and aim for routes on the easier side of what you're used to. 

OP kmsands 09 May 2024
In reply to PaulJepson:

Thanks both... I think it's going to be the Roaches, and we'll save the moors for high summer. 


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